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Tucson Audubon Society Reprinted from the May-June, 2001 Vermilion Flycatcher, newsletter of the Tucson Audubon Society. The
White Mountains are for the Birds The avifauna of the White Mountains combines birds of the northern Rockies with a fair percentage of the Mexican birds which make southeastern Arizona a birding Mecca. It is probably the closest region to Tucson where certain species of birds can be found, and in some cases is virtually the only place in Arizona where some species such as Gray Jay, Catbird, and Pine Grosbeak (rare and difficult to find) occur. The White Mountains consist of rolling grasslands, a number of small lakes, evergreen forests, soaring peaks, and fast-moving trout streams. Elevations range from 6,000 to over 11,000 feet above sea level with 9,000 being about average. Temperatures can be downright cold even in summer. The writer does not consider himself to be an expert on the White Mountains or its bird life and has relied heavily on existing sources and more knowledgeable persons. TAS members, John Higgins and Diane Touret, the journals of independent professional guide Stuart Healy (www.aztrogon.com), and various submissions made to the Maricopa Audubon by Steve Ganley supplied useful information concerning the birds of the White Mountains. A checklist for the birds of the White Mountains can be obtained from the Apache-Sitgraves National Forest and is on its website www.FS.FED.US/r3/asnf. It is recommended that one allow at least two days to bird the White Mountains, though it is possible to plan an enjoyable but exhausting day trip from Tucson. Both the Maricopa and White Mountain Audubon Societies (www.audubon.org/chapter/az) periodically schedule field trips to this area. Stuart Healy schedules trips and will arrange customized excursions. The worst thing about the White Mountains is having to get there. It is about 220 miles from Tucson to Showlow via AZ 77 and will involve a little more than four hours of travel time. Traffic can be very slow on this road due to sharp curves, heavy weekend traffic, and slow trucks on steep hills. If you are east of Tucson, it is about 180 miles from Willcox to Alpine along US 191. It is about the same mileage to Alpine, if one takes AZ 78 east from US 191 to US 180 in New Mexico and US 180 north to Alpine. US 191 north of Morenci is very narrow and slow with switchback after switchback; it is hard to do better than 30 mph on much of this road. US 180 through New Mexico is a faster, straighter road, but the writer cannot testify to road conditions along AZ 78. One can check for Gray Vireo and Black-chinned Sparrow in appropriate habitat along AZ 77 and probably along US 191. You might also see Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep around the world’s largest pit mine just north of Morenci along US 191. Beginning the exploration of the White Mountains in the Showlow/Pinetop area, one finds that there are a number of public trails, lakes and parks. The two managed wetlands in the area are probably your best stops. These are Pintail Lake/Allen Severson Wildlife Area (4 miles north of Showlow off AZ 77) and Jacques Marsh (1.5 miles from Lakeside on Porter Mountain. Rd. Turn left on Juniper Dr. for 0.6 miles). These areas are good for common water-associated birds. Look for Lewis’s Woodpecker along forest edges and Common Nighthawks over town at dusk. Elk may also be present, especially in winter. Williams Creek National Fish Hatchery is an out-of-the-way stop. Take AZ 73 for 4 miles south from Hon Dah to Williams Creek Hatchery Rd. (Reservation Rd. 69) and 8 miles northeast to the hatchery. Bald Eagles, Osprey, Goshawks, Dippers, and Lewis’s Woodpeckers are in the area. The hatchery is only open on weekdays from 7:30 am to 3:00 pm. Holiday and weekend tours can be arranged by calling the USFWS at (520) 334-2346. It should be noted that most of the locations in this article are off of AZ 260 running between Showlow and Springerville. Most of the birds mentioned herein are birds which breed in the White Mountains and which are at best uncommon or erratic wintering birds in southern Arizona. This writer welcomes any informative comments about this article, which subscribers can send to the editor of the Vermilion Flycatcher. Proceeding along AZ 260, you will come to AZ 273 - the road to Sunrise. Turning south onto AZ 273, one should be alert for Mountain Bluebirds in the grasslands alongside the road and Common Nighthawks at dusk. Just past Sunrise Lake turn right/south on Reservation Rd. 58 which goes to Sunrise Ski Area. The lengthy access road to Sunrise Campground is poorly marked on the left off Reservation Rd. 58. The Sunrise campground is an area noted for finding Gray Jays scavenging around the picnic tables and for Pine Grosbeaks; this summer, a female was a visitor to the campground host’s feeders. Blue Grouse, Three-toed Woodpecker, and Williamson’s Sapsucker also may be found in this area. Further south on AZ 273, you will come to the bridge crossing the West Fork of the Little Colorado River. This area is often referred to as Sheep’s Crossing. Here you may find Dippers, Gray Jays and trout fishermen. It should be mentioned that birders are not alone in the White Mountains. This is probably the most popular summer recreation area in Arizona, especially on weekends. Trout streams are crowded, lakes are busy, and accommodations may be fully booked. Access to wooded areas may be blocked by campers. It should also be mentioned that the White Mountains have many fee areas; the Apache reservation is a fee area, as are some Arizona state lands. Plan ahead for this as it may be inconvenient to obtain a permit after you arrive in the White Mountains, especially for state lands. Most of the areas mentioned in this article are not fee areas, though Sunrise is. One final note, this is a prime hunting area and safety orange apparel might be indicated during hunting season. A little further south along AZ 273 is Lee Valley Lake which has an encircling foot trail. Osprey, Gray Jay, Clark’s Nutcracker, and Blue Grouse may be present. Arctic Grayling make afternoon spawning runs up Lee Valley Creek in early May, and Apache Trout might be seen. Elk and beaver are in the vicinity. Returning to AZ 260, head east for approximately 5 miles and turn north on Forest Road 117 to Green’s Peak, which is a notable site for Blue Grouse. The road up Green’s Peak from FR 117 can be iffy and requires a judgment call as to whether it is navigable for your vehicle. This is a reliable place for Blue Grouse, but you will have to search for them. The forest alongside FR 117 can be good for Three-toed Woodpeckers and Williamson’s Sapsuckers, if access is not blocked by campers. Moving east again on AZ 260, you will come to a parking area on the south side of the highway for Pole Knob. Trails from this parking lot are supposedly good for Blue Grouse and Mountain Bluebird. Further east on AZ 260 is AZ 373 which goes south to Greer. Park at the end of this road. This is a good place for Dippers, though the numerous fishermen can make birding difficult. Birding is reportedly good in the campgrounds just 1 mile north of Greer. These three campgrounds, collectively called Greer Lakes, contain the trailhead to Butler Canyon. You can find Townsend’s Solitaire, MacGillivray’s Warbler, Dusky Flycatcher, and various woodpeckers along this loop trail. Access to the high country in this area other than by motor vehicle should be mentioned. There is a ski lift at Sunrise which operates in the summer. There are also the two moderately difficult foot trails into the Mt. Baldy Wilderness Area. They appear to make up a large loop of 20+ miles and are each about 7 miles long from their respective trailheads to where they join. Both trailheads are off of AZ 273 south of Sunrise. The Sheep Crossing Trail begins at FR 113 just north of the West Fork of the Little Colorado and east of AZ 273; of the two trails, this one will take you through better habitat. The Phelps Trail begins at Phelps Cabin at the end of FR 113G, which is east of AZ 273 and south of the West Fork. Birds which might be seen along these trails are Blue Grouse, Olive-sided Flycatcher, Cassin’s Finch, Pine Grosbeak, and Gray Jay. One source recommends that use of these trails should be restricted to June and September because of dangerous weather conditions during the other ten months of the year. It should be noted that one should be sensible about the back roads in the White Mountains. The latter are subject to summer monsoons and heavy winter snows, which can make dirt roads impassable. Traffic is constant and faster than road conditions warrant, so pull well off to the side and avoid stopping on blind curves or dips in the road. Getting back to AZ 260, go east towards Eagar. About 6 miles west of Eagar turn south on South Fork Rd. (FR 560/Cnty. Rd. 4124) to South Fork Campground. South Fork Trail begins at the campground and is one of the better birding sites around. You should check the area around the bridge crossing the Little Colorado River; it consistently produces nesting Gray Catbirds. Other good birds that have been found in the area are Saw-whet and Northern Pygmy Owls, Veery, American Redstart, Downy Woodpecker, Pinyon Jay, Dipper, Williamson’s Sapsucker, and Montezuma Quail. Becker Lake is about 2.5 miles north of Springerville on US 60/180/19. It is on the west side of the road and can be quite easy to miss, as it is not well marked and the lake is below your line-of-sight. It is a good area for migrating birds, especially those associated with water. Check Becker Lake Rd. immediately south of the lake for passerines and Lewis’s Woodpeckers on the snags. It might be worthwhile to glass the Gunnison’s prairie dog colony on the hill north of the lake for Burrowing Owls. You might go further north up US 180/191 to check out Wenima Wildlife Area (a riparian area) and Lyman Lake where a small herd of buffalo is maintained. The sites mentioned below will be south of Springerville off of US 191. Sipes Wildlife Area is just about 2 miles south of Springerville on FR 57 and is worth checking out. A survey of Willow Flycatchers is made in the riparian area, and Rufous and other hummingbirds can be abundant at the feeders around the manager’s office. Nelson Reservoir, just off of US 191 at Mile Post 409, is a good place to look for Pinyon Jays as well as waterfowl, rails, and blackbirds. Look and listen for the jays on the ridges above the lake. The town of Nutriso at MP 416 is also a reliable place for Pinyon Jays; at dawn or dusk try the residential area called Pinos de Paz, and also try FRs 81 & 88 on the west side of US 191, or along Apache County Roads 2021 & 2017. Further south on US 191, one can turn east onto FR 56 which will take you to Terry Flat and the Escudilla Mountain Wilderness. Stay on FR 56 all the way as it loops back on itself at Terry Flat and is about 18 miles, round trip, from US 191 and back. Blue Grouse, Pine Grosbeak, Mountain Bluebird, and Wild Turkey are possible sightings along this route. The Talwiwi Lodge at MP 423.5 along US 191 is another good stop. Check in at the office and scan the sightings list. Evening Grosbeak, Townsend’s Solitaire, hummingbirds, and southeastern Arizona specialty birds can be found here. The last area to be covered herein is the Hannagan Loop. Go south 14 miles on US 191 from Alpine and turn right/west onto FR 26 going about 10 miles to FR 24. Turn left (southwest) and go about 7 miles on FR 24 to FR 576. Turn left again and wind southeast for about 4 miles back to US 191 at Hannagan Meadows. Blue Grouse, Pine Grosbeak, Wild Turkey, and Mexican Gray Wolf are sightings which you might hope for along this route. The writer suggests that anyone who is planning a trip to the White Mountains acquire a good map of the area, as there are many good sites (Winn Campground, Luna Lake, etc.) which are unmentioned in this article. A trip to any of the many White Mountain lakes or a ride along any of the back roads could produce excellent birds. Good references to use when planning a White Mountain birding trip, which have not been mentioned previously, are John Carr’s Arizona Wildlife Viewing Guide, Steve Ganley’s article “Birding the White Mountains” (www.maricopaaudubon.org/ wtmtn.htm), the Maricopa Audubon’s birding hotline & field trip reports, Pettingill’s Bird Finding West of the Mississippi, and R.P. Robertson’s Southern Apache County Nature Areas (available from red GP, P.O. Box 729, St. Johns, AZ 85936 for $7.95 postage-paid). And some useful phone numbers for said trip are (520) 339-4384 (Apache-Sitgraves National Forest; (520) 367-4281 (Arizona Game and Fish Department at Pinetop); and (520) 338-4385 (White Mountain Apache Outdoor Recreation Area). Good Birding! Wildlife Viewing areas are found at the sign of the binoculars. Bird questions? Check Birding | General questions? Contact: Tucson Audubon Society | Webmaster: Email This page was updated on 02/28/08 |